The capital city of Ecuador is Quito, a beautiful place built high in the mountains. For those who like heights, take the Telefónica cable car from the base of the Pinchincha volcano for fabulous views of the city. At 2,800 m above sea level, it takes a bit to get used to the altitude of the city! Quito is divided into two quite distinct parts: the old and the new. Quito’s old town is very beautiful and has quite a European feel to it: many large plazas, beautiful churches, narrow cobbled streets lined with pastel colored buildings. The new city has more amenities, tourist shops, banks, tour operators, luxury hotels, restaurants and bars, but its appearance has nothing to do with the old city. Most people choose to stay in the new town as it is safer after dark and closer to the backpacker nightlife.
Just 30 km from Quito is the Middle of the World, the center of the earth (you can take a bus from the northern bus station, located between the old and new quarters of the city). Ecuador’s location on the equator line is the origin of its name. The Middle of the World is a monument erected on what was thought to be the site where 0 degrees longitude meets 0 degrees latitude. Unfortunately for the builders of the monument, it turned out years later that the actual point where this occurs is in fact c. 200m from the monument, but definitely still a fun place to visit and take the obligatory ‘center of the earth’ photos. There is quite an interesting museum inside the monument about all the indigenous communities in Ecuador. There are many more than you think!
The wonderful hot springs of Papallacta are located just 67 km east of Quito, on the route taken in 1542 by the Spanish conquistador Francisco del Orellana when he crossed the Andes mountain range to discover the Amazon River. At 3,300 meters above sea level, the views from the heart of the Andes mountains are incredible. Get ready for a slightly adrenaline pumping bus ride and those with a fear of heights shouldn’t sit by the window! The hydrothermal value of the Papallacta springs is due to its location between two volcanoes Cayambe and Antisana – the temperature of the springs at the source varies from 30 to 70 degrees and in the pools from 36 to 40 degrees. The highlight of any trip to Ecuador is sitting in a natural pool of hot water, carved into the rock, surrounded by the mist that clings to the tops of the Andes; it will really take your breath away. The Ecuadorian Medical College certifies that the waters have medicinal benefits and with a beautiful spa complex and a multitude of massages and treatments to choose from at bargain prices, you are guaranteed to leave feeling like a new person. You will need to stay overnight as the resort is a long way from anything else – there are cheap options down the road to the spa (about a 2 mile drive) the spa itself has 32 rooms with heating, open fires, ensuite bathrooms and their own private hot spring pools. Find some backpacker friends in Quito and head out as a group to save costs.
From Quito you can fly to the Galapagos which, assuming you have the cash, is not to be missed! The Galapagos are an impressive archipelago more than 1,000 km off the Ecuadorian coast. They meet and exceed all expectations, which are usually based on beautifully filmed wildlife shows and run very high! The only downside is that a 1 week trip will probably cost you between £1k and £1.5k, but if you can find the funds it’s worth every penny. The wildlife here is so plentiful and so at ease with the humans that exist alongside it that by the end of your week-long stay you nearly go crazy sitting down to dinner with a sea lion at your feet. The excitement for the experiences to come builds from the moment you step off the plane and cross the runway to the ‘airport’ (tarp-covered wooden shack) stepping on sleeping iguanas, basking in the warmth of the runway, as you go. The wildlife is amazing and you will get closer than you ever imagined, from blue footed boobies to giant tortoises, pelicans, penguins, flamingos, iguanas, sharks, dolphins and whales. It will blow your mind! The different ecosystems on each island are fascinating and if you can take a land tour that allows you to stay on some of the larger islands rather than just do it with the masses on a ‘cruise’ type trip, it’s well worth it. . Don’t miss the many island highlights of Isabella, such as walking across a lava field and through lava tunnels (be sure to check for volcano warnings though, this one is still very active!). Tip: make sure you get the passport stamp; it has to be one of the if not tea best in the world…we won’t spoil the surprise!
From the bus terminal in the old town of Quito, you can take a bus to the small mountain town of Latacunga; here you can organize trips to the Cotopaxi volcano and Quilatoa lake. The Cotopaxi volcano is impressive and perfect: ask a child to draw a volcano for you and his efforts would look like Cotopaxi! It is possible to climb the volcano – for the less adventurous you can take the trail (a vertical one at 4,800 m altitude) up to the base camp and from there reach the start of the glaciers. Alternatively, if you’re up for a challenge, you can choose to stay at base camp overnight and climb the summit at 4am with crampons – a great challenge and experience! Lake Quilatoa is beautiful: a sunken crater lake filled with very attractive but completely toxic turquoise waters and surrounded by grazing alpacas. The drive from Latacunga to the lake is one of the best in South America, with beautiful scenery and a rare glimpse of the indigenous communities you come across along the way.
The next destination is Riobamba, where you can board the spectacular train: the Diablo Nariz (devil’s nose), the views from this train ride are impressive, but the departure times are erratic and the city itself offers very little, so check this before you arrive. A worthwhile expedition from Riobamba is the mountain bike ride up Chimborazzo, Ecuador’s highest volcano at 6,300m to the top. The hike to the top is not as steep as Cotopaxi, so despite the higher altitude, it is easier to climb. The views as you mountain bike Chimborazzo are breathtaking, but be prepared for a bumpy ride!
The small spa town of Baños is worth visiting. Don’t expect much from the baths, but the town is full of character and for those who enjoy horse riding, there are some lovely walks in the surrounding area.
Cuenca is the third largest city in Ecuador after Quito and Guayaquil. It has a very European feel to it with wide green squares and beautiful churches. One more bus ride south is the riverside town of Loja, a convenient place to stop on your way to beautiful Vilcabamba but offering little to see.
Close to the border with Peru is the backpacker haven of Villcabamba, a fantastic place to relax for a few days (or weeks!) before tackling Peru. There are some great places to stay, like the Rumi Wilko Ecolodge on the banks of the river. Swimming in the river, hiking the mountain trails, horseback riding and getting massages make this place a highlight in Ecuador.